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Coast to Coast

Information Introduction Postscript
Days 1-3 8-11 12-14 15-18 19

Day 4. Rosthwaite to The Tongue - 11 miles

We wake early and leave Rosthwaite at 7.00 am. We hope to get much of the day’s walking over before it gets too hot. We head up the Seathwaite Valley where after a mile it meets Langstrath. We ascend steadily. Langstrath is full of erratic boulders and before the approach to Lining Crag, many drumlins.We sit atop one of the aforesaid drumlins and have a tea break, hoping to ascend Lining Crag like mountain goats. I feel more like a packhorse!

Lining Crag and eratic boulders Above Lining Crag the way eases along Greenup Edge. We follow a line of cairns to the summit of the pass at 2000 feet. It is now very warm and the breeze along the edge is very welcome. The mountain panorama is excellent. We begin the 3.5 mile decent along Far Easedale and, talking of packhorses, we do actually see a couple picking their way down the valley. The path twists and turns and it seems far longer but the weather is excellent, the scenery great and there are many waterfalls.

We arrive in Grasmere at 3.30 pm. We treat ourselves to a restaurant meal and restock our supplies in the town. It is now very hot and we lie on the grass verge, along with many other people too hot to move. Refreshed, we head out of town toward the Tongue.

At the foot of the Tongue we decide to camp for the night. The tent is very wet as there was a very heavy dew this morning. Charl runs around with the inner tent like a kite to dry it. By the time we are pitched it is 8.00pm.

Foot of the Tongue

We go to sleep to the sound of the waterfall. It is very noisy but nothing will keep us awake tonight!

Day 5. The Tongue to Angle Tarn - 9.5 miles

We leave at 7.00am and ascend The Tongue in sunshine. It is not a difficult ascent but my legs feel heavy and my pack heavier and I moan most of the way to Grisedale Tarn. The last stretch to the pass is very stony and, suddenly, my legs are revitalised.View from The Tongue Arriving at the tarn is like walking into another world. A squall blows up, the sky is black and it is quite cold. Time for jackets. It is so bleak, we rush past the tarn with hardly a look, let alone a photograph. Once through the pass the sun shines again. Grisedale Tarn seems to have it’s own weather system.

It’s time for a cuppa. No shortage of water round here, there are many cascades along the way. We (this means me) also cook a midday meal in order to walk further tonight when it is not so hot. We have more pasta and stretch out for a while. It is an effort to get going again. The skies cloud over a little and it is very humid.

We arrive in Patterdale at 2.30pm and sit on a bench opposite the post office. I make numerous sorties to said post office. Once for postcards, again for Solero (sun is beating down again), another trip for stamps, (having written postcards) and again for cakes to have with yet another cup of tea. We watch buzzards soaring overhead. We are surprised to find we have been sitting on the bench for 3 hrs!

The first stretch up to Boardale Hause is very steep. A bench has been thoughtfully provided at the top of this climb. Although we have spent enough time today sat upon a bench we cannot pass it by. Time for a smoke break as we watch the evening sun shine into the valley below. The sun rays have a "Brigadoon" effect which is magical. sun rays over Patterdale Evening sun on Patterdale village We climb steadily to Boardale Hause and on to the head of Dubhow beck where there is a fine view of Brother's Water. We arrive at Angle Tarn at 7.30pm. Black skies appear and there is a strong, gusty wind which makes pitching the tent hard work. It feels cold after the heat of the day and we are pleased to duck inside

Day 6.Angle Tarn to Burn Banks - 9 miles

We leave Angle Tarn at 8.00am and head for Satura Crag Early morning at Angle Tarn We miss a gate and not till we lose considerable height do we realise. There is no alternative but to climb back up again with a little detour adding extra effort to the day. This is rewarded, though, as we see a herd of deer.

From The Knott the rest of the walk is exhilarating, past High Street and to the summit of Kidsty Pike at 2560 feet. Golden eagles are said to nest here. We do see a family of circling birds of prey! Could it be? The descent is quite arduous but quick especially with a heavy pack helping the momentum. Above Angle Tarn Haweswater lies at the foot of Kidsty Pike. It is a manmade reservoir and was once the valley of Mardale. It is four miles long and very pleasant walking. You would imagine a walk beside a reservoir would be flat but, in fact, it is quite undulating all the way and even involves some short steep climbs. Haweswater

Tired after a hot day we decide to “B&B” at Burn Banks. Unfortunately, the farmer’s wife tells us she has relatives staying and is taking nobody in. Damn, there goes our shower! We ask if we can camp on the farm and are directed to a pasture by the river.

Day 7. Burn Banks to Orton - 13 miles

We wake to sunshine which is now the norm and are off at 8.00 am up to Park Bridge through parkland and pasture for 5 miles to Shap where we replenish our supplies and buy potato pies. By now it is very hot indeed so we sit, eat our pies and take on some liquid as soon as we leave town. Park Bridge

Soon after leaving Shap we cross the M6. A strange experience to be plunged back to civilisation. We walk through a quarry where huge lorries are working. They look like enormous Tonka toys.

We lose our way around the hamlet of Oddendale but this is soon rectified. We also have trouble finding the correct path across the moor. There are various posts. Which is the correct one? It is hot and tempers are fraught. We know the correct path has a large boulder alongside. We can’t miss that, surely? There is no shade. We are already looking forward to the shower advertised in the campsite at Orton.


We arrive in Orton hot and sticky only to find we have another 1.5 miles to walk to the campsite. A kindly person in the village offers to let us camp in his garden but we decline - they have showers at the campsite! View from tent at Orton

We pitch the tent and head for the showers. There is only a sink! We ask where the showers are. We are told there is a shower in the caravan but the caravan is booked this week! We are also told “we were going to build showers but we couldn’t get the parts”. Uh? The view is great though.