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Surprisingly,my leg is showing no sign of damage.
We hope to pick up some lunch at Brompton but there is no shop. Hard luck. We cross the A1 and after a while have to endure 6 miles on tarmac. It must be the hottest day of the walk so far!The tarmac is melting, you can smell it. There is not much shade. We focus our minds on each tree in the distance for the amount of shade it might proffer as we pass beneath it. Today we average only 40 mins per session before we have to have a break and a drink. We pass a house with people in their front garden and I ask for our water bottles to be filled. We arrive at Danby Wiske, hungry and thirsty. There is no shop, once more. It is 4.45 pm and the pub does not open till 7.00 pm. There is nothing for it but to sit on the grass outside and wait.A small boy comes to talk to us. He asks what we are doing there and we explain. He disappears for a moment and reappears with a slice of toast for us! He also says that he is sure his Mum would take us to Robin Hoods Bay in her car.
We finally get into the pub and are rewarded with a nice meal. The camping field is full of chickens and two elderly sheep. We are told the temperature exceeded 90F today.An owl hoots all night - is it the same one?
We leave the pub armed with a pack lunches provided by the landlady, not wanting to repeat the mistake of yesterday. We meet many interesting people along the coast to coast path.
We arrive at Park House, about half a mile past Ingleby Cross at around 2.pm. The camp is completely empty. We cannot even find any staff so we hunt out the showers and laze around for the rest of the day. It feels like a day off. A crowd of Dutch people arrive, absolutely soaked. They hang everything out on the fence, even the contents of their sacks and all the tents. They are walking the other way and must have encountered more rain than us.
We have a restless night probably due to lazing around all afternoon or it could be that owl. Is it following us?
The way now is unmistakable and the path stretches beyond and behind us as we begin the gentle ascent of Carlton Moor. Time to take on some more liquid. We stop for a cup tea made with the last of our water and admire the view. A hang glider wafts past like a paper aeroplane. This calm, serene atmosphere is broken when I kick my tea over. I havenít drunk any of it and we havenít got anymore water! Itís too hot to make a fuss so I just shrug but inside I am distraught.
We descend Carlton Moor to Carlton Bank and are surprised to find a cafť. I can have that cup of tea after all. Not only that, a fruit scone with blackcurrant jam to go with it! Even better, there is a natural spring to fill the water bottle. Charlie has a piece of quiche and some apple pie. Not wanting to be outdone and wanting to make the most of the serendipity, I have a banana split and we both have another cup of tea!
The scenery is breathtaking.Later, we sit on the heather for another cuppa, (well, it is hot) looking down over the plain. My head spins. It is like sitting on the edge of the world. My hat blows off and fortunately lands about six feet down, hooked on the heather. Charl goes down to retrieve it. I hold my breath. Iíd rather he left it there!
The path behind and the way ahead is always clearly visible.
Is this it? The field is completely empty but at the far end we can just make out a portacabin. It must be. As it is a new site, probably no-one else knows about it yet. We put up the tent and go for a shower. Itís been a hot, strenuous day. We open the door. It is full of flies. We try to shoo as many out a possible. The shower is a bit primitive but we finally get it going. There is no hot water!! Luckily the sun has been shining on the water tank and we have warm water for a short while then it runs cold and feels freezing on sunburnt skin. There is no loo roll. There is no mirror. We were expecting more. The notices, being so large and new, promised more. Never mind, at least itís here! We only have a banana sandwich for dinner. A woman comes to collect money and acts as if it is the best site in the world. She even inspects the inside of the tent for more walkers as she is charging per person!